Samsung DLP - Color Wheel/Light Bulb Replacement
So hello once again. This past week my Samsung DLP started to make a whirring noise. It sounded like a bearing going bad, well as the week went on, it turned into a grinding/whirring/screaming noise. This isn't good.
So the above prompted me to write this blog entry. How I repaired both situations.
I am going to discuss two repairs that i have done to my TV over the last couple months. I have the 63 inch DLP. Model HLP6163W
First lets discuss the Color Wheel replacement, mine uses BP96-00674A which you can get at www.partstore.com for about 140 bux. So off I go on the internet to read about this 'noise' to find out that it was indeed the color wheel. As you see, there are two moving parts in a DLP, the color wheel and some cooling fans, it was the wheel for sure. So I ordered the wheel and started to read the stories of others who have attempted to fix the wheel. Some were good some where horrible, some just failed. I wasn't feeling great, I am no TV repair man for sure, but I thought what the heck, if it works I save myself 400 or so bux (this is what i hear it costs to have a 'guy' come do it for you). After reading how to do it here I thought it doesn't look that bad. Then I kept searching and found some videos on YouTube where this guy taped himself taking his TV apart following these instructions. There are 5 parts and trust me they are riviting!! .. Ok the part arrives, and yesterday about 4:15 I start the process. Here are the steps from memory. (More on this later).
1. Move the TV to a table so I can work on it.
2. Gather the proper tools, you need a phillips head screw driver 6 or so inches, flash light, needle nose pliers, etc..
3. Remove the rear panel, it's 14 screws
4. Remove the light bulb housing, it's one screw and it has a keeper so you won't loose it.
5. Remove shinny bracked on the right side of the box that has 2 black and 2 brass screws plus one holding the tray along the bottom
6. Remove the other blk screw on the tray to the right, and remove the blu/brn pwr cable that feeds from the right, and move it out of the way.
7. Disconnect the DVI cable and the one ribbon cable on the projector box.
8. Slowly remove the projector box, making sure to not pull any wires, etc.. It will slide right out, but as you remove turn it to the left 90 degrees and sit it on the tv base with the big black fan/housing facing you.
Now the fun begins, take a moment to look at what you have done so far, be amazed...revel in it...
9. Remove the black housing/fan assembly with 3 screws. Make sure to loosen the wire run so you can swing it to the left.
10. Where the power cable to the fan runs, you will see it is kind of attached to a screw that holds the color wheel cover in place. This is next, there are 2 screws to this, remove set aside.
11. Now that you have the cover removed and the blk/fan housing removed, you should be facing a big silver square thing. You need to remove that. Three brass screws, and you will have to wiggle it a bit to get it loose.
12. Ok now you can get to the color wheel, behind where the silver thing was you will see a heat sink, this is the color wheel assembly. If you have your new one in hand it should be obvious where it is.
13. IMPORTANT the blu/wht cable is delicate, be careful removing, be gentle and it comes right out. Also there is a little ribbon cable that will need to be removed as well, it just slides out. THERE SHOULD NOT BE A CONNECTOR on the end of it, don't freak out that you screwed something up...
14. Ok, 3 screws and the color wheel assembly is free, you have to 'giggle' it a bit to get it to come free, but it will. The gasket around it tends to stick a bit.
Now your 1/2 way done. Marvel in your work so far, have a coke, or a cig what ever you choose...Ok back to it.
15. Remove new assembly from box, DON'T TOUCH WHEEL, and make sure gasket is where it should be compare to the one you took out for alignment. (Also here you can try to spin the old one, mine sounded like there was sand in it. Hence when the tv tries to spin this thing at 9K, yes 9000, RPM it sounds like a wounded Banshee. Someone else used that term, so I thought I would borrow it. Sounds correct...If yours is going bad, you understand.
16. Ok install new assembly making sure gasket is in the right place, it will slide right in. Take a flashlight and inspect gasket at this point, I had to pull out a section as it was rolled up a bit, but a pair of needle nose pliers did the charm.
Ok, now you put it back in reverse order.
17. 3 Screws for Color Wheel Housing.
18. 3 Screws for big silver thing, and it has some plastic guides so you can't put it in wrong.
19. 3 Screws for the blk/fan housing
20. 2 Screws for the color wheel cover, here make sure to put the little wire back the way it came off. And the tape...(Not sure what the tape does, but I put it back the way it was)
21. That is it for the projector tray, slide it back in the way it came out, being careful with the wires.
21a. There is a jumper that some have had to pull to get the colors right, I didn't have to do this, so if you replace the wheel and the colors are woperd00ed, then this jumper needs to be pulled look it up on the internet for location.
22. Replace Silver bracket on the right side, with 2 brass screws and 3 black ones. Re-install power cable removed in step 6.
23. Connect ribbon cable and DVI cable disconnected in step 7.
24. Make sure there are only 14 screws left . Put back panel back on with 14 screws.
25. Hook up HDMI, plug in power, turn on and enjoy Nascar!
This whole process took me about 45 mins, I did it mostly from memory from what I read and saw on YouTube. You can do this as well, just be careful of what your doing and it's really simple. The picture is awesome, brighter than before, as the old color wheel the colors were kind of faded. So give it a go, it's not that hard. I didn't include pictures since I think most of the TV's might differ a bit from one to another and it's not that hard. The hard part was moving the beast to get it to where I could work on it. Let me know if you have questions...
Ok the bulb, yes I have replaced it once, they say it will last about 4-5K hours, but I got 9K out of my first one, that equals about 4 years for me, not bad.
Very simple to replace, I need the BP96-00826A housing for a complete replacement. Again you can get this for about 140 at the same place I mentioned up top. Funny you would think the bulb with out the housing would be cheaper but thats not the case, either way they are 140 give or take 5 bux, so I just got the complete package. I was going to buy another bulb, to replace the bad one that I took out but since the price is the same I will just go ahead and get a complete housing. Go figure.
Ok to replace, gain access to rear of TV, on the right side you will see a square opening that requires 4 screws to remove. Remove those and walla, access to the light bulb cage. Mine has one brass screw on the left side of the housing (this screw will not come out all the way, it has a keeper on it) so just loosen that, and remove the housing. Yes you guessed it, replace the old with the new and put panel back on and your good to go. Simple repair.
So how do you know when your bulb is going bad? You power on your Samsung DLP. It takes extra long to turn on. Lots of clicking and a few power cycles? Your TV is trying a few times to get that pesky lamp going. Finally, the process ends with the dreaded three blinking lights. Your lamp is probably burned out.
So thats my story and I am sticking to it.
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